Cosmetology State Board Practice Test Guide

Cosmetology State Board Practice Test Corrugations Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries. Furrows Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness. Leuconchia White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail Onychorrhexis Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals. Hang Nails Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle Onychomycosis Unguium Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious Onychocryptosis Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes. Verruca Warts caused by infectious virus Onycholysis lifting of the nail without shedding 5 Basic Nail Shapes squoval, round, oval, pointed, square Toner used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring Conditioning filler protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes Color filler used to replace the missing primary colors Oxidative Demi- permenant and permenant color Non-oxidative color temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent. Double process blonde decolorizing and toning What affects lightener working time? Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat Lift lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair Deposit means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift developer oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten Semi-permanent color non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo. Demi-permanent color oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone Permanent color lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out Primary colors Red, Blue, Yellow Brown unequal combo of primary color Black Equal parts of primary colors Warm tones red, orange, yellow Cool tones blue, green, violet Neutral tones perfect combo of both cool and warm tones Eumelanin Brown to black pigments Pheomelanin Red to yellow pigments Coarse texture largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected medium texture has a balance of melanin, typically no problems Fine texture smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage 1/5 Alkaline Wave AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT Acid Wave AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing Endothermic required added heat source Exothermic self heating Croguiqnole Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method" Spiral hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod On base placement hair is held 45* forward 1/2 off base placement hair is held 90* straight up Off base placement hair is held 45* down End paper techniques double flat, bookend, cushion wrap Lanthionization hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed Sodium relaxers are not compatible with : Thio relaxers Elasticity ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20% Melanin color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin Hair layers medulla, cuticle, and cortex Medulla center core of hair, does nothing Cuticle 7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair Cortex has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight, elasticity, strength, all chemical changes Skin Layers Epidermis, Dermis, Subcutaneous tissue Epidermis Outer layer of skin, protective/water proof, contains keratin and fats, stratum germinativum Stratum Germinativum basal cell layer of epidermis that produces melanin that protects from uv rays Dermis "True skin" sensitive layer of connective tissue, 25x thicker than the epidermis, 70% of layer is made of collagen protein, elastin, and blood vessels Sebaceous glands oil/sebum glands Sudoriferous glands sweat glands subcutaneous tissue fatty layer, below the dermis acid mantle 4.5-5.5 Muscle massage massage from insertion to origin insertion attached end to another muscle or movable bone origin fixed attachment to a bone or tissue Efflerage light continuous stroking/no pressure, soothing/relaxing Functions of the skin protection, sensations, heat regulation, excretion, secreation Skin Largest organ of the body, first defense against disease, germs, and environment. Spread wax on in: same direction as hair growth Pull wax strip off in: opposite direction of hair growth Methods of temporary hair removal Shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories (nair) 2/5 Ph Scale ranges from 0-14 Acid ph balance 0-7 Neutral ph balance 7 Alkaline ph balance 7-14 Infection Control controlling germs - sanitation 3 Methods of infection control sanitation, disinfecting, sterilization Sanitation removing visible dirt disinfecting kills most bacteria but not all Sterilization kills all microbial life Marvacide hospital grade, EPA registered, effective against HIV, tuberculosis and hepatitis Hypertrichosis unsusal amount of hair growth Terminal hair very dark visible hair Vellus hair baby fine hair hyper more than normal trich hair ology the study of something osis condition invisible braid over technique visible braid under technique corrective base to use for yellow violet corrective base to use for orange blue corrective base to use for red green in a test curl you look for what shaped pattern? "S" pattern Bloodborne pathogens disease causing bacteria or viruses carried through the body in blood or body fluids OSHA occupational safety and health administrations EPA environmental protection agency Where should you test foundation? jawline What are complimentary colors? colors on opposite sides of the color wheel: red & green, blue & orange, and yellow & violet Another name for strip lashes band lashes Corrective make up is used to do what to the face hide imperfections What are MSDS Sheets? Material Safety Data Sheet What do MSDS Sheets list? Chemical safety info for a product What are the hazards categorized as on MSDS sheets? Physical and health Builds weight in a hair cut Horizontal line Reduces weight in a hair cut Vertical line Weight distributed on top or bottom, used for blending Diagonal line 4 Basic Hair cuts 180*, 90*, 45*, 0* Over direction pulling hair away from its natural fall Head shape changes how often? every half inch Fingerwaves the process of shaping and directing hair into a pattern of "s" shaped waves throughout the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion or gel 3/5 Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls and rolls that are used in a wide range of hair styles Roller set used to create many of the same effects as stand up pin curls Parts of a pin curl base, stem, circle Ammonium Sulfate relaxer classified as "low ph" or "no lye", will not relax extremely curly hair Quanidine hydroxide known as "no lye" always has to be mixed with an activator, less scalp irritation, more drying to hair, swells hair more Characteristics of hair density, texture, elasticity, porosity, growth direction, length Texture diameter of the hair, fine - medium - coarse Density hairs per square inch - thick or thin Porosity How well hair absorbs moisture - non porous, normal anor over porous Elasticity Hairs ability to stretch Growth Direction whirls, callics 3 types of bonds hydrogen bond, salt bond, disulfide bond Hydrogen bond broken by water or heat, weak bond, 1/3 of hair strength Salt bond affected by ph. 1/3 of hair strength Disulfide bond strong chemical bonds, can be broken and reformed with perm solution. bleaching and coloring hair can weaken bond as well. 1/3 of hair strength Perm papers absorbant papers that control ends of hair Acid on ph does what to cuticle closes cuticle Alkaline on ph does what to cuticle? Swells the cuticle , blows it open Anatomy the study of the structure of the organs and systems of the human body Physiology the study of the functions and activities performed by body structures Cells the basic units of living matter The cells of living things are composed of a substance called what? protoplasm Histology AKA microscope anatomy, the study of tiny structures only visible through microscope Chemistry the science that deals with structures and properties of matter and how it changes under different conditions Organic Chemistry Stustances that contain carbon and were alive Inorganic Chemistry study of substances that do not contain carbon Matter anything that takes of space and has mass 3 types of matter solid, liquid, gas Solid definite shape and volume Liquid Definite volume no definite shape Gas No definite volume or shape Element simpilest form of matter and cannot be broken down COHNS elements found in the hair Atoms Particles from which all matter is composed Molecule Chemical compound of 2 or more atoms Compound chemical combo of 2 or more atoms of different elements Physical properties size, color, weight, hardness 4/5