University:
Boston University
Course:
CAS EE 144 | Introduction to Oceanography
Academic year:

2022
Views:

152

Pages:

10
Author:

Naomi Whitehead

Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Wave overtopping is a turbulent, 3D problem – Strong vertical velocity and acceleration components Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Wave overtopping is a turbulent, 3D problem – Strong vertical velocity components Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Turbulent interaction with reflected wave leads to a non-uniform overtopping time series, even for regular incident waves Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Now, with the Boussinesq, we cannot model this turbulent 3D interaction – How important is this phenomenon to predicting overtopping??? Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Now, with the Boussinesq, we cannot model this turbulent 3D interaction – How important is this phenomenon to predicting overtopping??? Wave Overtopping – Limitations with Boussinesq • Now, with the Boussinesq, we cannot model this turbulent 3D interaction – How important is this phenomenon to predicting overtopping??? • Experimental data comparisons indicate that, in the timeaveraged sense, the Boussinesq provides reasonable results • Mean OT rate = OK • Variance statistics = not OK – Would need to use physical modeling or N-S modeling Generation of Rip Currents Wave Evolution of Reefs and Shelves Harbor Resonance Nearshore application of the Boussinesq on the large scale - Conclusions • What can we do now? – Field scale simulation of waves in the time domain • Large domains (>100 km2, 50 million grid points) • Long time simulations (days) – Wave induced currents – Tidal/river flows, inlets – Wind wave & tsunami interaction with nearshore structures and complex bathymetry • What we want to do in the future… – Sediment transport (storm erosion AND recovery) – Coupled/hybrid modeling with fully 3D models – Think stochastic (need to decrease wall clock time)