Fabric Construction Fabric is a flat structure that is constructed from fibres and yarns. It can be shaped to make garments and furnishings. There are several methods of fabric construction. These include   Weaving Knitting  Bonding Felting  Laminating Plaiting  Braiding Knotting  Lacemaking Net making Weave Weaving is done on looms by interlacing weft yarns and warp yarns at right angles to each other. The warp yarn go lengthwise and the weft yarns go crosswise. The loom is first threaded with the warp yarns. These are placed to run along the length of the fabric and form the lengthwise or warp grain of the fabric. The direction in which the yarns run is called the grain of the fabric. The weaver then interlaces the weft yarns across the warp yarns to make the fabric. The weft yarns are the threads that run crosswise on the fabric. They form the crosswise or weft grain of the fabric. When the fabric is woven the tightly woven ends that are created along the length by the interlacing yarns are known as the selvage of the fabric. The Weaving Loom There are (3) three basic types of weave from which all other weaves can be formed. They are Plain weave, Twill weave, and Satin weave. 1. Plain weave This is the simplest type of weave. The weft yarn passes over the warp and under the next warp and continues in this pattern across the fabric. In the next row, the weft yarn passes under one warp and over the next warp and is continued in this way to the end of the fabric. The third row is the same as the first row and this pattern continues throughout. Characteristics of Plain weave  Can be strong and durable depending on the way the yarns are laced together  The fabric has no right or wrong side unless it is printed or specially finished.  Sometimes the yarns are varied in type, colour, and size to add interest to the weave. Examples of woven fabric Plain weave fabrics voile, handkerchief linen, cambric, gingham, poplin, sheeting, muslin Basket weave - a type of plain weave in which two or more weft yarns pass over and under two or more warp yarns. 2. Twill weave In a simple twill weave, one weft yarn passes over two and under one or more warp yarns alternately to the end. In the subsequent rows, one warp yarn to the left or right is skipped and the weft yarn continues to pass over two and under one or more warp yarns. The result is an arrow of diagonal ridges across the fabric. Characteristics of the Twill weaves  Diagonal ridges are visible across the fabric.  Has a right and wrong side.  Fabric is strong and may be softer than plain weaves.  Fabric creases less than plain weaves and does not soil, but fairly difficult to clean.  Fabric can become shiny when worn frequently.  The construction creates a more open structure fabric that stretches and drapes well but loses its shape easily. Examples of woven fabric – (Twill weave) Twill weave fabrics gabardine, drill, denim, sheeting, serge, flannel, suitings, rayon, linings Variations of the twill weave Birdseye twill is a variation of the twill weave in which the diagonals form a diamondshaped pattern. Herringbone twill is another variation of the twill weave in which the diagonals run in both directions.

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