Basics of Hair Color Theory

Chapter Thirteen Color Question Temporarily Permanently Color Wavelengths Pure Colors Secondary Colors Tertiary Colors Color-Wheel Answer by adding color pigment that shampoos out (immediately or overtime) either by adding or removing color pigment is the visual perception of reflection of light. also called electromagnetic waves traveling through space Yellow,red, and blue called primary colors orange,green, and violet: result when primary colors are mixed in varing proportions: orange contains varying amounts of red and yellow: green contains varying proportions of blue and yellow, and violet contains varying proportion of red and blue Mixing a primary color with its neighboring secondary color in varying proportions makes teritary colors. is a 12-hue color circle that is created from the three primary colors, yellow, red and blue. also referred to as tone or hue Name of a color Tone of hair color can be as warm, cool or neutral described found opposite one another on the color wheel referred to as complementary Complementary Colors colors colors Neutral Colors colors that donot exhibit warm or cool tones Value/Level is the degree of lightness or darkness of a color, relative to itself and to other colors. is a numbering system that identifies the lightness or darkness of hair colors:Level one Level System the darkest level, the lightes hair colors are leve twelve The darkest of the three blue primary colors Medium of the three red primary colors lightest of the three yellow primary colors Final color results Contributing pigment & Artificial pigment Melanin pigment that gives hair its natural color Three layers of the hair cuticle, the cortex and medulla Melanocytes produce small egg-shaped structures called melansomes Black pigment Eumelanin Red pigment Pheomelanin apply one level lighter if the client has approximately 25%-30% gray hair apply one level darker if the client has approximately (75%-80%)high percentage of gray hair you may need to pre-soften or pre-lighten the hair first by mixing and applying a lighter resistant hair shade to make it porous enough to receive the final color application Light level of hair 12-Palest Blonde 11-Lightest Blonde 10-very light blonde 9-light blonde Medium level of hair 8-medium light blonde 7-medium blonde 6-dark blonde 5-light brown Dark level of hair 4-medium brown 3-medium dark brown 2-dark brown 1-black Base Color identifies the warmth, coolness or neutrality of a color the intensity of an artificial hair coloring by adding a complementary color or it can be lessened or neutralized increased or strengthened by adding a concentrated color such as yellow, red, blue, green or violet Texture the degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber Porosity refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals. Resistant porosity the cuticle layers are smooth, tightly packed and compact Average porosity the cuticle is slightly raised thereby accepting color products easily Extreme porosity the condition in which the cuticle is lifted or missing may be required to equalize porosity throughout the hair strand prior to the color filler service to ensure even color absorption. Contributing pigment Artificial Pigment Final color result Non-oxidative colors Oxidative colors Lighteners other color products non-oxidative colors Temporary colors semi-permanent oxidative colors long-lasting semipermanent permanent colors oxidative colors color removers long lasting semipermanent (demipermanent) permanent colors alert toners fillers concentrates, intensifiers and drabbers lighteners degrees of decolorization double-process on-the-scalp off-the-scalp re-colorizing developers Hydrogen peroxide ALERT! metal bowl least common coloring products basic detail determine the client's existing level and time determine the client's desired level and tone choose the color formula not mixed with developer- Temporary/Semi-permanent (mixed with developer)long lasting semi-permanent (demi-permanent)permanent, toners, and fillers on-the scalp & off-the scalp vegetable, metallic,and compound dyes add pigment but do not lighten the existing hair color. as the name implies, are used to create temporary color changes that last from shampoo to shampoo. also known as color rinses.weekly rinses,color mousses and gels, color crayon, mascaras, pomades, spray-on colors and color-enhancing shampoos and cond. colors deposit color and cannot lighten the hair. deposit color or lift (lighten) and deposit color in a single-process technique (demi-permanent) oxidative colors without ammonia oxidative colors with ammonia are not designed to lift or lighten artificial pigment and dye solvents, are designed to lift artificial pigment low volume of hydrogen peroxide, last 4 to 6 weeks contain very little ammonia also known as demi-permanent are mixed with hydrogen peroxide they are sometimes called oxidative tints with ammonia or aniline derivative tints. Paraphenylenediamine and Paratoluenediamine are two types of dye intermediates which can be found in permanent tints. since permanent colors contain aniline derivatives, a predisposition test (patch test) is required are light pastel colors used to add warmness or coolness to prelightened hair provide an even base color by filling in porous damaged or abused areas with materials such as protein or polymers. They equalized the porosity of the hair and deposit a base color in one application are names given to products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralized unwanted tones from the contributing pigment also known as bleach are used to decolorize remove or diffuse pigment as natural hair is lightened the eumelanin and pheomelanin pigments are decolorized and the hair goes through degrees of decolorization or stages of lightening if the desired color result is different from what can be achieved with decolorizing alone, color can be applied to recolorize the hair to the shade desired lighteners are mild enough to be applied directly on the scalp and are available in two form: oil and cream lighteners come in powder form and, when mixed with hydrogen peroxide, become a strong lightening product taking the decolorization process one step further by recolorizing the hair will enable you to see the role the contributing pigment plays on the final color result. with a pH of 2.5 to 4.5 are oxidizing agents used with demi-permanent and permanent color, lighteners and toners. (H2o2) is the most commonly used developer (oxidizing agent) in hair coloring products increasing the strength of hydrogen peroxide in a formula beyond th manufacturer's recommendations may cause damage to the hair and chemical burns to the skin and scalp mixing hydrogen peroxide in a metal bowl may cause it to become weak, therefore always mix the formula in a glass or plastic bowl vegetable, metallic and compound dyes you are looking at a color design and identifying if what you see is a light, medium or dark hair color looking a bit closer will help you identify the family of hair color and the warmth or coolness of the hair abstract sculpted form at the abstract level, you imagine the placement of color to create the effects you see. may serve as an inspriation for color placement identifying the existing and desired levels and where to position lights and/darks can be existing/desired level an easy way to think about color placement before thinking about the design in color are patterns that subdivide the head into multiple areas to create a color design with a zonal patterns combination of colors from subdividing the head into zones, shapes are used to create color designs or coloring within shapes aside patterns. color application are described according to the placement of color along the strand: base, midstrand, techniques ends or any combination. a base-to-ends application is used when you want to add tone to or darken the existing base to ends (darker color along the entire strand. A base-to-ends application is also known as a virgin darker result) technique midstrand-to-ends-then-base technique is used to lighten the existing color by midstrand to ends then the applying the new color or lightener to the midstrand,generally 1/2"(1.25)away from the base (lighter result) scalp. The midstrand-to-ends-thenbase application is also known as a virgin lightener base(retouch) a base application is used for a retouch color service involves the positioning of highlights and/or lowlights (lights and/or darks) on the dimensional coloring surface of the hair or to selected strands throughout the design to create special effects highlighting making isolated strands lighter lowlighting making isolated strands darker weaving and slicing techniques are generally used to add depth and dimesion to the existing hair color is a technique in which a tool is used to strategically position color or lightener on the freeform painting hair. also known as surface painting end lights dimensional coloring can also be achieved by lightening only the ends of the hair cap method a crochet hook is used to pull hair strands through a perforated cap retouch applications will vary depending upon the degree of contrast between the retouch for dimensional color-treated hair and the non-treated hair and the rate at which the hair grows. coloring techniques Dimensional coloring will usually require a retouch application anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks