Chemical Texture Services Key Terms and Concepts

Milady Chapter 18 Chemical Texture Services Question Not true acids waves,as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glycerl monthioglycolate(GMTG)as the primary reducing agant.Acid balanceed waves process at room temperture,do not require the added heat of a hair dryer,process more quickly, and produce Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6,use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent,and process at room temperature. Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen. Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia,and are popular because of thier low odor. Answer Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) base cream or protective base cream Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during the relaxing. Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head(horizontally,vertically,or diagonally)also,the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. The position of the rod in relation to its base section,and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.Rods can be wrapped on the base,half off base,or off base. Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping,one rod is normally placed on each base section. Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and aree positioned on equal-sized bases:all base sections are horizontal,with the same length and width as the perm rod. Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. Perm wrap similar to actual techique of bricklaying,base sections are offset from each other row by row. Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. Middle layer of the hair,located directly beneath the cuticle layer.The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod,in overlapping concentric layers. Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water. Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under,and one is placed over,the strand of hair being wrapped. Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair,one on the top of the other. Perm activated by an outside heat source,usually a conventional hood-type dryer. Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. acid- balanced waves alkaline waves(or cold waves) amino acids ammonia-free waves base control base direction base placement base relaxers base sections basic perm wrap bookend wrap bricklay perm wrap chemical hair relaxing chemical texture services cortex croquignole perms curvature perm wrap disulfide bonds double flat wrap doublerod(piggyback)technique endothermic waves end papers or end wraps exothermic waves Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving solutions. Base control in which the hair the is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees(perpendicular)to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section. Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges:easliy broken by water,as in wet setting ,or heat,as in thermal styling,and re-form as the hair dries and cools. The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is anacid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates)the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair scalp.Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not i Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13.The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair;breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthioline bonds when thr relaxer is rinsed from thr hair. Tool that is usually about 12 inches long a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. Perms that work at a low pH,and uses sulfates,sulfites,and bisulfites as a alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or the core of the hair. Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium,potassium,or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen. Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing. Base contol in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendiclar to its base section,and the rod is positioned completly off its base. Base control in which the hais wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base. Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains. Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. Relatively weak phsical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges;easily broken by changes in pH,as in permanent waving,and re-form when the pH returns to normal. Disulfide,salt,and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper,placed over the top of the strand of hair beingg wrapped. Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length.These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape. Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make exsiting curl larger and looser. Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to its length of the rod,which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod,similar to the grip on a tennis racket. Perm rods that are equal in diameter along thier entire length or curling area. Colourless liquid with a strong unpleasent odor provides the hydrogen that causes the reducing reaction in permanent waving solutions. Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. Use the same ammonium thioglycolate that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH Perm that uses cysteamine or metrcaptamine instead of ammonium thiglycolate as the primary reducing agent Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process, process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. glyceryl monothioglycolate half off-base placement hydrogen bonds hydroxide neutralization hydroxide relaxers lanthioization loop or circle wave low- pH waves medulla metal hydroxide relaxers no-base relaxers normalizing lotions off-base placement on-base -placement peptide bonds or end bonds polypeptide chains salt bonds side bonds single flat wrap soft bender rods soft curl permanent spiral perm wrap staight rods thioglycolic acid thio neutralization thio relaxers thio free waves true acid waves weave technique