Key Concepts for Hair Chemistry and Permanent Waves

Flash cards Question The main active ingredient or reducing agent is The main active ingredient in acid-balanced waving lotion is The degree to which hair absorbs the waving lotion is related to its The action of waving lotion is to If hair breaks under very slight strain, it has A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair is the Keratin proteins are made of long chains of ________ linked together end-to-end like beads. Hair texture describes the ________ of a single strand of hair and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse. Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are considered to be The perm that is activated by heat creatd chemically within the product is known as Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer is known as Bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains are joined together are The chemical action of _________ breaks the disulfide bonds and softens the hair. When the hair has assumed the desired shape, the broken disulfide bonds must be __________ rebonded. Straight rods are equal in ________ rods have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends, resulting in a tighter curl at the ends, with a loose wider curl at the scalp. What type of hair is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services? What type of hair requires more processing than medium or fine hair and also may be more resistant to processing? All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels which are further divided into subsections called Base control refers to the position of the tool in relation to its _________ and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. The basic perm wrap is also called a _________ wrap. The _________ wrap creates a movement that curves within sectioned-out panels. The _________ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, it will result in When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 90 degrees to its base section, it will result in Ends wraps are absorbent papers used to ________ of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm tools. When you place one end wrap on top of the hair strand and hold it flat, it is called the When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope, it is called the What can be used to determine the actual processing time needed to achieve optimum curl results when giving a perm for the first time on a client? If too many _________ bonds are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. Under-processing is caused by __________ processing time of the waving lotion. In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first Answer Ammonium Thioglycolate Glyceryl Monothioglycolate porosity expand the hair little or no elasticity double tool technique amino acids diameter acid-balanced endothermic peptide bonds endothermic disulfide waving lotion chemically diameter concave fine texture coarse texture base sections base panel straight set curvature perm weave technique on-base placement half-off base placement control ends single flat wrap book end wrap preliminary test curl disulfide insufficient 5-10 minutes The length of time required for the hair strands to absorb the waving lotion and for the hair to re-curl is called Always rinse perm solution from the hair for at least ______ minutes before applying the neutralizer. Some manufacturers recommend the application of a _______ after blotting and before application of the neutralizer. Neutralization rebuilds the __________ by removing the extra hydrogen bonds created by the waving solution. If the hair is not _________ the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the hair to lighten. Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite charges are An __________ liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged. In neutralization, the bonds the hair are re-formed Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are ___________ Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause _________, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is known as Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called The ________ wrap is used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. The ________ wrap is done at an angle that causes the hair to spiral along the length of the tool, like the grip on a tennis racquet. When performing a procedure for a preliminary test curl, wrap one tool in each different area of the head, including the top, the sides, and the In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section, use a larger tool for the last tool next to an unrolled section when giving a Many male clients are looking for added ________, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; process at room temperature, and create firmer curls. Also known as cold waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate, as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature. Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, and sulfur. Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use. processing time five pre-neutralizing shampoo disulfide bonds rinsed properly hydrogen bonds acidic immediately peptide uneven curls viscosity partial perming bricklay perm spiral nape partial perm texture acid-balanced waves alkaline waves amino acids ammonia -free waves Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkalive perms. ammonium thioglycolate Position of the tool in relation to its base secton, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head(horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod in normally placed on each base section. Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within in a panel move in the same direciton and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod. Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. Perm wrap similar to actual techinique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. base control base cream base placement base relaxers base sections basic perm wrap bookend wrap bricklay permanent wrap concave rods croquignole perm wrap Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding the hair on perm rods. Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type dryer. Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the waving process. Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section. curvature perm wrap double flat wrap double-rod wrap end papers endothermic waves exothermic waves glyceryl monothioglycolate half-off base placement