Haircoloring Terms and Techniques (Chapter 21)

chapter 21 haircolor Term color fillers Definition Also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability. Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex. Also known as free-form technique; painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair. Predominant tone of a color. Lightening technique that involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles. Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair. complementary colors A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. activators aniline derivatives baliage base color cap technique conditioner fillers contributing pigment demipermanent haircolor developers double-process application fillers foil technique glaze hair color hair lightening haircolor haircolor glaze highlighting highlighting shampoo hydrogen peroxide developer intensity law of color level level system Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends. Also known as undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. Also known as no-lift deposit-only color; formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color. Also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color. Also known as two-step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair. Used to equalize porosity. Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap. A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair. The natural color of hair. Also known as bleaching or decolorizing; chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair. Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial haircolor products and services. Common way to describe a haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair. Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth. Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color. The strength of a color System for understanding color relationships. The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color. Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural lighteners hair pigment. line of demarcation Visible line separating colored hair from new growth. known as gradual haircolors; haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color metallic haircolors Also gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance. mixed melanin Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin. Also known as vegetable haircolors; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark natural haircolors of plants. new growth Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored. off-the-scalp lighteners on-the-scalp lighteners Also known as quick lighteners; powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp. Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators. Also known as a predisposition test; test required by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act for identifying a possible allergy in a client. Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more permanent alkaline than no-lift deposit-only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume haircolors developer. First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before prelightening the application of toner. presoftening Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining primary colors other colors. Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer resistant processing time. reverse highlighting Also known as lowlighting; technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color. secondary color Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. semipermanent No-lift deposit-only nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is haircolor formulated to last through several shampoos. single-process Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application. haircoloring Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1D8-inch (0.3 centimeters) section of hair slicing by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color. Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used the soap cap last five minutes and worked through the hair to refresh the ends. special effects Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. haircoloring Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be strand test left on the hair. temporary haircolor Nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color tertiary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. tone Also known as hue; the balance of color. Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily toners on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. virgin application First time the hair is colored. volume Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair weaving with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands. patch test