Intro to Fashion Industry Notes - A Century of Fashion (Study Guide)

Intro to Fashion Industry Notes A Century of Fashion Key Concepts ● The social and cultural conditions that affect fashion ● Major development and trends, decade by decade ● The designers and other innovators who influenced fashion Fashion history tells us where we've been and suggests where fashion is going It's hard to determine when a century ends, it's not just a set day/year, it's usually a monumental event Social and Cultural Conditions ● Hempline went up when the stock market fell in 1980s ● Wars, civil rights, travel, technology, medicine, sports, and the entertainment industry all effect what we wear during a time. Fashion Trends and Developments ● Sometimes an event will trigger for a specific fashion trend, such us when 9/11 and Pearl Harbor happened people started to wear red, blue, and white clothing and accessories ● For every trend that happened in its time, a reinterpretation happens later on. Designers and Other Influences ● The creative force behind all the change over time comes from the fashion designers ● Many famous designers have put their stamps on major fashion trends Before 1900s Social and Cultural Conditions ● The Civil War of 1861-1865 threatened the survival of the USA ● The war brought industrialization through the country ○ Railroads improved ○ Telegraphs and cell phones making info spread faster Fashion Trends and Developments ● Conservative victorian era, clothing straight laced and bodies were covered up ● Women were dressed to look respectable through inner skirts outer skirts and many layers etc ● Skirts reduced to slimmer bustle silhouettes ● Demand for practical clothing - cuz of job in factories 1 Designers and Other Influences ● Almost every woman was her own dress maker and looked at other for inspo ● Much influence from Europe ● More widely availability about fashion (ex. vogue) ● Photography directed women into seeing what they wanted to wear 1900s - 1910s Social and Cultural Conditions ● The US population was increasing rapidly ● Divide between rich and poor ○ Charities tried to help the poor ● Women were working for 20% earning wages outside the home ● People that could afford a car bought them ● Cell Phones widespread ● Airfare introduced ● People had money to spend on entertainment Fashion Trends and Developments ● Skirts rose to ankle ● Men wore formal morning coats 1920s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Women were allowed to vote with the 19th amendment ● Banned the distilling, brewing, and selling of alcohol ● First flight over the atlantic ● Era ends with the market crash in 1929 Fashion Trends and Developments ● Women ○ Hemline above the knee allowed for movement ○ Shapeless chemises were ornamented with fringe and beads ○ Short hair and dramatic makeup ○ Coco Chanel introduced little black dress and jersey knits ● Men ○ Conventional: sack suits with vests, trousers, and jackets matching in color and fabric ○ Neckties, bow ties, and ascots 2 ○ Sleek hair and thin mustaches Designers and Other Influences ● U.S. retailers began to focus on the business of selling fashions ● Chain stores brought prices down and increased purchasing power ● Knockoffs were common ● Ready-to-wear included seasonal collections ● 1929 Stock Market crash led to abrupt change in society 1930s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Great depression led to widespread unemployment and an economic crisis ● Work war II dominated the lives of people worldwide ● The war led to women having to work in factories ● Commuting to the city by car allowed for the expansion suburban communities Fashion Trends and Developments ● Women: ○ Daytime fashion for women were conservative suits or lady like dresses ○ Fabrics were in short supply and rationed ○ Emphasized waist lines ● Men: ○ Influenced by military styling: pea coats and double breasted sailor looks ○ Pants were wide and high wasted ○ Suit jackets had wide structured shoulders 1940s Social and Cultural Conditions ● After the Depression and World War II, roles and values shifted ○ Restrictions and rationing ended ○ A new less formal lifestyle emerged and appeared in clothing, entertainment, and recreation ● The American fashion industry developed a different method of distributing fashion and designers created ready-to-wear seasonal collections ● Department stores created a shopping experience for their customers with varieties of products, events, and in-store restaurants 1950s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Art and entertainment developed: 3 ○ Abstract expressionism: Pollock and WIllem de Kooning ○ Rock and roll ○ Television was the main entertainment at home ● Movies showcased fashion Fashion Trends and Developments ● Women: ○ Christian Dior introduced the feminine new look - full skirts and tight waisted ○ Hats and stilettos completed the looks ○ Women always wore dresses - pants and jeans were not accepted ● Men: ○ Ivy League - conservative suits and button down shirts ○ Late 1950s: rebellious looks - leather jackets, jeans, t shirts, and biker boots 1960s Social and Cultural Conditions ● JFK elected and assassinated ● Vietnam War ● Apollo 11 first moon landing ● Equality for women - Pill introduced ● Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. - I have a dream Fashion Trends and Developments Conservative ● Women: ○ Jackie O ○ Fitted dresses - hemline below the knee ○ Classic suits ○ Pillbox hat ○ Polished looks ● Men: ○ Clean look ○ Sport jackets ○ Button down shirts ○ Short hair styles Mod Style ● Women: ○ Twiggy ○ Mary Quant and the miniskirt 4 Bouffant hairstyles Wild patterns and bright colors ○ Knee-high go-go boots ● Men: ○ Edwardian styles ○ Longer hair in a bowl-cut ○ Glasses ○ ○ Hippie Style “free” style ● Worn by both men and women: ○ Natural fibers ○ Gypsy styles ○ Tie-dye, batik, and embroideries ○ Bell-bottom jeans ○ Sheer tunic tops worn without a bra ○ Headbands, and love beads ○ Long hair styles and afro hairstyles Designers and Other Influences ● Individually and self expression ● Unisex fashion ● Women struggled for equality ● Women rebelled against societies views about feminine beauty ● European fashion influenced by ready - to - wear ● Social and economic instability continued ● Fashion looked like space suits and futuristic because of the moon landing 1970s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Social unrest ● Anti War demonstrations against vietnam war ● First Gay Pride march ● Earth day movement started ● The ME Decade - thinking about ourselves ● Economic problems ● Women had careers ● Divorce rate went up ● Development of computer technology 5 ● Increased air travel Fashion Trends and Developments ● Women: ○ Mini, maxi, and midi skirts ○ Started to incorporate pants into fashion – palazzo pants, pantsuits, and hot pants ● Casual dressing – denim ● Designer jeans ● Classic looks and lifestyle dressing- Ralph Lauren ● Punk look – Vivienne Westwood - England start ● Hippie look ● Disco look – Studio 54 Designers and Other Influences ● Vietnam war ended ● Street style started to dictate fashion ● Increasing global access influenced fashion 1980s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Art and entertainment: ○ MTV brought music and fashion to forefront ○ Mega pop stars ○ Rap music and hip hop ○ Video games ○ Street dancing ○ Supermodels became more popular than movie stars ● Movies that show fashion: ○ Flashdance, Wall Street, Scarface, etc Fashion Trends and Developments ● Women: ○ Tailored suits with powerful shoulders ○ Nancy reagan red suit ○ Commuter white sneakers ○ Fitness craze ○ Big hair and big accessories ○ Neon bright colors ● Men: 6 ○ Tailored sharp suits ○ Flashy over the top looks ○ Miami vice inspired suits with t-shirts 1990s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Worldwide globilization ● Collapse of the soviet union - end of cold war ● The gulf war ● International terrorism ● Increased global manufacturing in China ● Change in work patterns - from home, alternative schedule, and job sharing ● Technology advanced - computers, cell phones, and internet Fashion Trends and Developments ● Everything goes ○ Minimalism and casualness ○ Private label merchandise ○ Outlet malls ○ Mega malls ● Casual style ○ Banana Republic and the Gap ● Grunge style ○ alternative rock musicians from the Seattle scene; torn jeans, Converse, flannels ● Goth/industrial punk ○ dark leather looks, corsets, and metal studding ● Urban look ○ oversized garments, low slung pants with visible underwear, “bling” jewelry ● Preppy style ○ varsity-style sweaters, classic blazers, button-down shirts, cardigan sweaters ● Vintage style ○ resurgence of hippie Designers and Other Influences ● Fashion no longer dictated from the top ● Technology changed how designers, retailers, and consumer responded to fashion ● Increasing market segmentation ● Enthusiasm and trepidation about the upcoming millennium 7 ● Larger global community interested in fashion ● Established Fashion rule change 2000s Social and Cultural Conditions ● Important people and events: ○ Y2K fears ● Terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001 ● Environmental issues, global warming, and sustainability ● Global recession ○ Ongoing Middle Eastern violence ○ Environmental issues ○ Technological advances – social networking ○ Fast fashion – H&M, Zara, Forever 21 Fashion Trends and Developments ● Influenced by celebrity culture, vintage interest, and “green” fashions ● Designers do lines for affordable stores – Target, H&M ● Sustainable designs and products ● Utility-inspired trends – cargo pants, multifunctional jackets ● High performance fabric ● End of decade led to return of more tailored clothing ● Lingerie revolution 8