PRESENTATION(OUTLINE(
(
I.(MoLvaLon(
(
II.(Nonlinear(Wave(PropagaLon(in(the(Nearshore(
(
III.(A(Numerical(and(Experimental(Study(on(Infragravity(Waves(
(
IV.(Chile(as(an(InternaLonal(Natural(Coastal(Laboratory( IV.(Natural(Coastal(Laboratory(
This(area(was(heavily(affected(by(the(2010(Tsunami(
• The land subsided (~0.5-1.0m)
• The sand spit was washed
away by tsunami waves
• The sand spit rapidly reformed
under highly energetic waves
(strong wave and aeolian
alongshore sand transport)
• Three years of low river
discharge
⇒(The(sand(spits(reformed(but(
different(than(before( IV.(Natural(Coastal(Laboratory( IV.(Natural(Coastal(Laboratory( IV.(Natural(Coastal(Laboratory(
Video images post processed by R. Almar, IRD-LEGOS, France
Chile as an International Natural Coastal Laboratory
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