Evolution Academic Notes

CONTENT/TEACHING OUTLINE Unit B: Evolution and Movement of Fashion COMPETENCY: 2.00 Explain the evolution and movement of fashion. OBJECTIVE: 2.02 Summarize the movement and acceptance of fashion. A. Define fashion movement and fashion. 1. Fashion movement: Ongoing change in what is considered fashionable. 2. Fashion: The styles that are accepted and used by a particular group of people at a given time. B. Explain the theories of fashion movement. 1. Trickle-down theory (Downward flow theory): The assumption that fashion trends start among the upper class or fashion leaders and move down to the masses or fashion followers. a. World’s oldest and most accepted fashion theory b. Asserts that fashions are accepted by people of lower socioeconomic income levels only after they have been worn by people of upper socioeconomic income levels (1) These styles can be seen on high-fashion runways. (2) Examples: Jackie Kennedy’s pillbox hat, Barbara Bush’s pearls, Nancy Reagan’s love of the color red, and Hillary Clinton’s influence in making pantsuits acceptable in the office 2. Trickle-up theory (Upward flow theory): The assumption that fashion trends start among the young or lower income groups and move upward to older or higher income groups. a. Style originates with the lower class and gains approval by upper class or the fashion elite. b. Examples: ripped jeans, leather jackets 3. Trickle-across theory (Horizontal flow theory): The assumption that fashion moves horizontally through groups at similar social levels from fashion leaders to followers. a. Members of each social group look at the leaders of their own group for fashion trends. b. A leader within each class influences peers or a leader of one group affects the other group members. c. Example: Designer fashions are copied quickly for mass production, providing similar styles at most price ranges. However, they don’t become popular until the fashion leaders of each group have accepted them. Fashion Merchandising B-10 C. Explain the fashion cycle. 1. Facts about the fashion cycle a. Fashion cycle: The ongoing introduction, rise, peak, decline, and obsolescence in popularity of specific styles or shapes. b. All styles that come into fashion rotate through the fashion cycle. c. Fashion acceptance can be illustrated using a bell-shaped curve. d. The cycles for some styles are exceptions to the bell-shaped curve. (1) Flops: Fashions that are introduced and expected to sell but that are not accepted by consumers. (2) Fads: Temporary, passing fashions that have great appeal to many people for a short period of time; styles that gain and lose popularity quickly. Examples: go-go boots, Nehru jackets, legwarmers (3) Classics: Styles that continue to be popular over an extended period of time even though fashion changes; styles that remain in fashion year after year. Examples: blazers, denim jeans, men’s dark suits, the Chanel suit, loafers 2. Stages of the fashion cycle a. Introduction: The first stage of the fashion cycle when new styles, colors, textures, and fabrics are introduced. (1) The new style may be accepted by a small number of people called fashion leaders. (2) Promotional activities include fashion shows and advertising in high fashion magazines. (3) Fashions are produced in small quantities at high prices. (4) Retail buyers purchase limited numbers to see if the style will be accepted. b. Rise: The second stage of the fashion cycle when consumer interest grows and the fashion becomes more readily accepted by consumers. (1) Mass production brings down the price of the fashion, which results in more sales. (2) Styles are manufactured in less expensive materials and in lower quality construction than the original style. (3) Promotional efforts are increased in high fashion magazines to heighten consumer awareness. (4) Retail buyers order items in quantity. c. Peak (Culmination stage): The third stage of the fashion cycle during which a style is at its height of popularity. (1) The fashion is demanded by almost everyone because it is now within the price range of most consumers and is mass produced in many variations. (2) Each retailer tries to persuade customers that its version of the style is the best. Fashion Merchandising B-11 (3) The style may have a short or long stay at this stage. (a) Short-run fashions: Styles that are popular for a brief period of time. (i) Fads, usually lasting only one season (ii) Accepted and rejected quickly (iii) Teenagers’ fashions change the fastest and have the most trends. (iv) Styles are easy for the manufacturer to produce and are relatively inexpensive to the consumer. (v) Styles typically have more details than seen in classics. (b) Long-run fashions: Styles that take a long time to complete the fashion cycle. (i) Classics, basics/staple fashions (see glossary) (ii) Slow introduction, long peak, slow decline (iii) Styles have simple lines, minimal detail. d. Decline: The fourth stage of the fashion cycle when the market is saturated and popularity decreases. (1) The fashion is overused and becomes dull and boring. (2) As the fashion decreases in popularity, retailers mark down their prices. (3) Promotions center around major clearance or closeout sales of the fashion. e. Obsolescence: The fifth stage of the fashion cycle when the style is rejected, is undesirable at any price, is no longer worn, and is no longer produced. 3. Lengths of fashion cycles a. Cycles have no specific lengths. b. Recurring fashions: Styles which have been in fashion at one time, gone out of fashion, and come back in fashion again. (1) Fashion trends seem to recur about every generation or every 20 to 30 years. (2) Example: shawls and ponchos of the 1980’s reintroduced and accepted in 2004 c. Fashion cycles are less distinct now than in the past. Example: acceptance of all skirt lengths 4. Roles of fashion leaders and followers in the fashion cycle a. Fashion leaders: Trendsetters who have the credibility and confidence to wear new fashions and influence the acceptance of new trends. They are the first to purchase new styles, and they typically desire distinctiveness and uniqueness. They may be innovators and/or influencers. (1) Example: Andrea, a popular student at your high school, is a trendsetter who is not afraid to wear new fashions. (2) Other fashion leaders: people featured in the media such as royal families (Princess Diana), first families (Jackie Kennedy, Nancy Reagan), movie stars (Halle Berry, Nicole Kidman), Fashion Merchandising B-12 television personalities (Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Aniston), athletes (Michael Jordan), and musicians (Britney Spears, Beyoncé Knowles) b. Fashion followers: Those who accept and wear a fashion only after it becomes acceptable to the majority. Example: Andrea’s friends admire her and want to dress like her. Once Andrea has established a new trend at school, her friends become fashion followers. D. Identify the five basic principles of fashion movement. 1. Consumer acceptance or rejection establishes fashion. a. Consumers express acceptance by purchasing fashions or reject those fashions by not purchasing. b. Designers, manufacturers, and retailers can encourage acceptance but cannot force consumers to purchase. 2. Price does not determine fashion acceptance. a. Successful styles introduced at a high price are soon copied and made available at various prices. b. Customers who cannot afford the original garment accept the fashion and simply wait to purchase when an affordable knockoff is available. Knockoff: A design copied from a more expensive garment. c. The price a customer pays for a fashion item does not indicate whether it is fashionable or not. 3. Sales promotion does not determine fashion. a. If consumers are not interested, no amount of promotion will change their rejection of the design. b. Promotion cannot save a fading fashion. 4. Fashion movement is evolutionary rather than revolutionary. a. Fashions evolve gradually from one style to another rather than changing quickly because consumers generally do not accept drastic, sudden changes. b. Technology has caused the evolutionary process to move faster. 5. Fashion extremes cause reversals or abrupt changes. a. Fashion styles can go only so far in one direction and must eventually change. b. When fashions reach an extreme in styling, a new and different look will begin. c. Examples: skirt length going from micro-mini to very long, men’s ties going from very wide to extremely narrow E. Compare factors that accelerate or decelerate fashion movement. 1. Factors that accelerate fashion movement a. Communications and mass media (1) Communication worldwide spreads fashion news instantly. (2) Fashion looks can be seen and accepted everywhere. (3) Movies, videos, television, magazines, the Internet, and other media show latest fashion trends and stimulate purchases. b. Good economic conditions Fashion Merchandising B-13 (1) A strong economy raises the value of the United States dollar. (2) Consumers have more discretionary money to spend on clothing and accessories. (3) More resources are available for creating new fashions. c. Increased competition (1) Constantly changing assortments of goods are available from competing manufacturers and retailers. (2) Wider varieties of styles of better quality are available at lower prices. (3) Consumers are more likely to discard and replace the lower-priced, mass-produced items made available as a result of competition. d. Technological advances (1) Products at all price levels are manufactured faster and delivered quickly. (2) Mass production makes it possible for retailers to have a good supply of new products available to attract customers. (3) New fibers and fabric finishes provide benefits that consumers want. e. Social and physical mobility (1) Moving up the social ladder exposes people to new fashion influences and lifestyles creating a demand for different fashion items. (2) Physical moves may result in the need for clothing for a different climate or different job. f. More leisure time (1) Leisure time due to retirement, paid holidays, and paid vacations allows for travel, social activities, sports, and relaxation. (2) Consumers often need larger, more varied wardrobes to accommodate their lifestyles. g. Higher levels of education (1) Generally, the more education a person receives the more earning potential he/she has. (2) The higher one’s income, the more retail purchases he/she makes. h. Changing roles of women (1) Women working outside the home and in non-traditional jobs require additional and different clothing. (2) Women today are more likely to require active sportswear. i. Seasonal changes. Changing temperatures result in the desire for clothing of different weights and colors. 2. Factors that decelerate fashion movement a. Bad economic conditions (1) The value of the United States dollar decreases. (2) Consumers may experience unemployment, and they generally have less money to spend on discretionary purchases. Fashion Merchandising B-14 (3) Fashion providers offer fewer items. b. Cultural and religious customs (1) Cultural groups may encourage wearing a traditional form of dress, so members of the group reject new fashions. (2) Some religious groups discourage or prohibit certain fashions and the followers avoid fashion trends. Example: women wearing pants or using make-up c. Laws or other governmental regulations. Example: restrictions on the use of hides and furs of endangered animals d. Disruptive world events (1) War (a) Troops are deployed and are not at home to make purchases. (b) Families of military service personnel typically reduce purchases. (c) Use of certain fibers or fabrics may be restricted for military use. (2) The events of September 11, 2001 interrupted runway shows in New York City and caused the television retailing networks Home Shopping Network and QVC to be off the air for a short time. Fashion Merchandising B-15