Androgynous chooses an identity that can be explained as an altered blend of both or mixed male or female identity. True androgyny lies in the absence of gender binaries and their associations. Designers who have managed to create androgynous fashion are typically the ones who erase masculine and feminine differences. Androgyny refers to someone’s physical appearance or presentation and doesn’t necessarily correlate to a gender or sexual orientation.
As ANDROGYNOUS FASHION is genderless it sometimes raises political thread, whereby issues of feminism and the gay rights movement have intersected with expressing a non-binary aesthetic to clothing. Example: A woman carrying a pantsuit or a man wearing makeup or heels. The best example is Luisa Capetillo an adult woman activist in Puerto Rico she started wearing a suit and a tie in public.
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Androgynous fashion began before it became a symbol of style and fashion. Women started to enter the workforce, political and social changes impacted fashion, and they wore suits, ties, and tuxedos in public which was not at all common in the 1920’s.In the same era, Coco Chanel introduced women’s trousers and influenced and inspired women like Katherine Hepburn to carry on the trend of pants as they are so comfortable compared to the ‘typical’ feminine clothing like those long big skirts women used to wear twenty-four seven.
Then the end of World War II working women wore this style of clothing by default as it was more comfortable and practical as they had long working hours. Cinema had played a huge role in embracing Androgynous Fashion, men took pride in their physical appearance by using hair products and beauty products like makeup for the plays. Example: James Dean acted as a pioneer with his dramatic hairstyles and quirky style of clothing, he paved the way forward to a modern way of thinking and dressing. The shift was accelerated by the army recruiting female spies, who had to wear special uniforms comprised of jackets and dresses over trousers. Women then were perceived as wearing outfits of men.
Elizabeth first showed “this unique style” to her cousin Elizabeth Cady Stanton, an American social activist, abolitionist, and leading figure of the early women’s rights movement. Caddy was very impressed with the look and the freedom of the movement and about her experience of wearing trousers and being comfortable.
There was an introduction of FLAPPER STYLE consisting of trousers and a ‘chic bob’ hairstyle marketed as the latest trend in women’s fashion. The flapper style gained much popularity with celebrities during the 1930s the glamorous German actress Marlene Dietrich was one of the first cinema stars to adopt adapt flapper androgynous style. Marlene Dietrich was often seen wearing trousers and suits at movie premiers. From then on androgynous fashion became widely adopted by celebrities and fans from all over the world.
The ‘persona’ was introduced to the public when David launched his music album ‘The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and Spiders from Mars’. David described it as a reflection of his sexual ambiguity under the influence of pop culture and cinema stars androgynous fashion made its mark.
Since historic times the word 'androgyny' has been synonymously used with the term 'hermaphrodite', which means possessing a combination of both masculine and feminine characteristics. Androgyny is all about nonconformity. A gender-bending movement in fashion to fill any gender gaps. Androgynous style and clothing has been a runway staple in the West and it is making its way in dominating the Indian market.
In India, androgyny is not thought of as an odd mixture of sexual organs but is viewed as a fortunate combination of male and female qualities. According to Indians men and women are incomplete without each other. Together they are complete with each part helping the other.
India is slowly accepting inclusivity and warming up to the LGBTQI+ community, especially after bidding goodbye to the law discriminating against homosexuality. It aims to break the gender binary rules of society through clothing and using the stage as a means of silent protest and expression.
In contrast, androgynous fashion has been present since the 1900s, but was limited to big designer houses and was worn mainly by people in Hollywood showbiz but is slowly making its way to the Indian film industry by dominating one runway at a time. Every year, designers are blending fabrics, experimenting with cuts and silhouettes foraying into the world of genderless clothing with some or other new concept.
Modern androgyny started slow but the Turning point was Lakme fashion week 2013 one particular womenswear designer managed to turn heads and get the attention of the industry with his curious long tunics with side slits. The tunic, fitted brilliantly into the wardrobe of both men and women. And then soon after another domination was in 2015, when Ranveer Singh known for his bold and outrageous sense of fashion wore skirts for the promotion of his movie Bajirao Mastani, bringing embracing androgyny and this trend into the spotlight. After which Ayushmann Khurrana and Irfan Khan were seen wearing similar outfits.
It expresses power rather than gender. Power has traditionally been associated with men. Through androgynous silhouettes, there is a sense of power being transferred to women. Making women look more masculine than men — not only does this change gender stereotypes, but it is also an empowering gesture. It also started symbolizing how important is for women to be financially independent and professionally successful.
Today many designers are also approaching models who are open to adapting and carrying androgynous clothing. There are certain campaigns, catalogs, and fashion shows where people get a chance to showcase androgynous attire. Today Indian fashion designers are playing a huge role in changing our outlook on the way we look at clothes. Designers like Rohit Bal and Rajesh Pratap Singh have introduced drapes, floral patterns, and free-flowing folds into their collections. These designers and many others are slowly blurring the idea of ‘feminine’ and ‘masculine’ clothing.
People in India are slowly adapting androgynous styles of dressings breaking the gender binary rules which is visible in modifications to the traditional Indian garments. For Example, Dhoti which was considered a traditional attire for men is now worn by women as well, and Anarkali which is a dress-like silhouette that was traditionally adorned by women is now given as a variation to the traditional masculine sherwani.
Many Bollywood actors have incorporated androgynous clothing in their wardrobe/style and have made fashion statements for promoting their movies, magazine cover shoots, and breaking gender norms in fashion.
Jim Sarbh made a statement by wearing a flowy outfit with trumpet sleeves and a traditional Indian kurta/Anarkali style dress with a floral print.
Designers soon started adding masculine influences. Silhouettes started having masculine influences. For instance: Detailing on collars, adds a sense of masculinity to women’s clothes. From shirts and bombers to boxy shorts and boyfriend jackets, bold graffiti-esque slogan prints from your boyfriend’s closet, and vice versa, the gender lines started blurring step by step
Home-ground brands have curated Indian fashion labels that have successfully managed to champion genderless in their collections.
Kallol Datta’s designs are conceptualized while keeping in mind the fabric and material and not the consumer’s gender. Her designs were famously known for fluid silhouettes.
NorBlack NorWhite (NBNW) is a brand known for coming together with modern silhouettes and refined techniques of traditional Indian handicrafts. Most of the pieces of clothing comprise unisex separates with no distinctions made concerning prints, fabrics, or silhouettes.
This label is popularly known as Bobo describes himself as a ‘lover of art, obsession, and illusive modern expressionism, history and fashion’. This label is a reflection of the core belief of love being the basis of all things. Clothes are inspired from paintings because as art has no gender his clothes also have no gender.
Alan Alexander Kaleekal is a label that has become known for using Indian handicrafts and handloom fabrics and for garments with baggy silhouettes that are cut from a single block of fabric, for minimal fabric wastage. The majority of the garments are limited to a very neutral palette of black and white.
Rimi Nayak, a womenswear designer taking up androgynous fashion aesthetics, worked on menswear detailing in her collection for Lakme fashion week- 'Some of my silhouettes have masculine influences. Detailing on collars, for instance, adds a sense of masculinity to women’s clothes. I even have one ensemble where a man’s tie is printed onto a top. From shirts and bombers to boxy shorts and boyfriend jackets, the gender lines are being blurred and I am happy to endorse this trend,” says the designer.
Soon androgynous fashion furthered the case for un-gendered styles and inspired even mega high-street brands like Zara, Topshop, H&M, and New Look to launch special collections without gender tags. Every day one or other person is including androgynous fashion in their wardrobe because it’s not just style, fashion, or trend it signifies one’s expression and power. The fashion is not a fad, it is here to stay.
Though India is slowly accepting androgynous fashion, it still has a long way to go. Different people have different opinions towards androgynous fashion, We shall conduct several surveys and interviews to assess the evolving perceptions about androgynous fashion.
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