Essay on 1960s Counterculture Fashion

When you ask a person, what comes to mind when they think back to the 1960’s, the most common answers are; Hippies, Drugs, The Beatles, and the ‘weird’ vibrant clothes.

Among other things, fashion seems to be what sticks in people’s heads. Many icons from that era were known mainly for their style, such as Jackie Kennedy, Twiggy, and Audrey Hepburn. The ’60s was a time of change, politically and culturally. There was a wave of liberal thinking and the population shifted to have more young people than ever! Which affected everything from music to leisure, Young people wanted to wear what they wanted and express themselves how they wanted. They partied, took drugs, and expressed their political views verbally and through fashion.

So was fashion as a whole actually that vibrant? or did it go way beyond the peace signs, long hair, and over-the-top colors?

The 60s was a very busy time, both in the States and here in the UK. In America, it was a very busy time for social activists. The civil rights movement was very active doing; peaceful protests, marches, sit-ins, and freedom rides, as a way to go against segregation in the southern states. This eventually led the government to pass the 1964 Civil Rights Act (Digitalhistory.uh.edu, n.d.). The women’s movement fought for their rights to have equal job opportunities and also equal education. Whilst simultaneously fighting against standard views on women (Digitalhistory.uh.edu, n.d.). LGBT people were also fighting for their rights, mainly for the end of discrimination based on sexuality (Digitalhistory.uh.edu, n.d.). In 1964 President Johnson set up his ‘Great Society Program’ as an effort to; help malnutrition, push out medical care, provide housing, try and reduce poverty, and make the poor more employable (Digitalhistory.uh.edu, n.d.). With all the chaos surrounding the Vietnam War, the Anti-war movement, riots, and the rise of the counterculture. This hugely contributed to the fact that Republicans were in control of the country for 10 years (Digitalhistory.uh.edu, n.d.). The United Kingdom was also full of social activism. The teenagers of that decade were the first to live without conscription - their parents had fought in or lived during WW2, and they wanted their kids to enjoy their life and have freedom. Teenagers of that decade were significantly different from their parents. As they did not live in fear and could do what they liked (Watson, 2015). This was a big era for women’s rights, as in 67’ the pill became legal for all women and not just women who were married. Which meant they could control their life and be more than just a wife and mother (Watson, 2015). Another good push for the women’s movement was a strike in Dagenham, at the Ford Factory, when 850 women went on strike for equal pay. Which lead to the Equal Pay Act of 1970 (Watson, 2015). It was only until 1967 that gay and bisexual men could be allowed to date, without being arrested. Beforehand they were prosecuted and could have even faced life in prison. Sadly, even after that, gay people did not have the same rights, and more men were arrested (Bbc.co.uk, 2017). Harold Wilson, during his term as prime minister also introduced the Race Relations Act. Making discrimination based on race a legal offense, despite his tighter controls on immigration (Crystal, 2009). So, this was a very busy era in general.

When looking back, politics in particular Influenced fashion immensely.

Feminists in the 1960’s, used fashion politically. Lots of them cut their hair, rejecting the idea that hair was connected to femininity. Which itself was rejecting traditional beauty standards for women, that objectified them (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 62). But as the evidence suggests, not all feminists cut their hair, reject beauty culture, or try to look non-traditional. The way that women dressed, wore their hair, and presented themselves was a central part of the feminist movement (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 62). They did not outright reject obvious feminine things such as makeup, dresses, or heels. They rejected the restrictive way women had to present as a part of sex roles in society (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 62). So, in a sense fashion in that community was not vibrant, but it had a way deeper meaning as a way to make a point and feel free than to turn men’s heads.

The civil rights movement also came with its sense of political fashion. It mainly involved a major sense of black pride and being proud of your culture. As more young people joined the movement in the 60’s that changed, and the way they presented themselves changed. Lots of women stopped straightening their hair and the natural hairstyles became ingrained as a part of the black liberation (Luther Hillman, 2015: pp 34-35). Another trend was African-influenced attire, which showed cultural pride. So, you could see people who were Black nationalists by identifying the vibrant clothes, dashikis, African Jewellery, and natural hair (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 38). By the end of the decade, It stopped being about black power and became liberating for black people In general. The fashion of Black activists was vibrant in a way, as it was rich was culture, meaning, and colour.

In the 60’s there was a major movement for gay rights, some people wanted to challenge the norms that society had in place. Other gay activists thought that the gender-bending styles were a major liability that pushed stereotypes (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 93). Many new gay activists adopted the style of the hippie subculture, so as new leaders of gay organizations became more known, the media focused on their appearance (Luther Hillman, 2015: page 95). The younger activists also thought that being gay automatically meant they had to reject respectability and dress codes. Fashion in the gay rights movement was vibrant when looking at the gay activists who didn’t want to conform. But it wasn’t vibrant on the other side which thought it was a liability.

Another major part of fashion was subcultures, particularly amongst the younger generation. Politics still plays a major role, but their upbringing and personal tastes also play a part in the subcultures that were formed.

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A good example of this is the Hippie subculture, which formed in the States this decade in colleges (Greer, 2014). Most hippies were white people from wealthy backgrounds who had just rejected normal American customs (Greer, 2014). They felt like outsiders mainly because they thought they were repressed. Leading to them making their communities and surrounding themselves with like-minded people (Greer, 2014). The Fashion of this culture is what most people think of; long hair, bright psychedelic clothes, etc. Most hippie clothes were very loose fitting, such as wide-legged pants and maxi dresses and the style was more feminine (Greer, 2014). This subculture is what most people think of and it is very apparent why! When compared to other subcultures of the decade, this one stands out - It’s extremely vibrant and was a prominent part of that era.

Mods, in comparison, are a lot less vibrant. The subculture did emerge in the late 50’s but was very popular in the 60’s. It came from mostly working-class people being tired of being discriminated against because of class (Gonzalez, 2016). Young people tried to look like they were more sophisticated, by wearing luxury clothes. They also valued having fun, by going clubbing and taking drugs (Gonzalez, 2016). Mods wanted to be unique and individual and the fact it started to go mainstream made people leave. Many of them join the rock and hippie subcultures (Gonzalez, 2016). Most of the fashion consists of French line haircuts, tailored suits, ankle boots, loafers, and the iconic M51 parka. Girls were androgynous, and they were the first to embrace the mini skirt (Theblondesalad.com, n.d.). So, when you compare that to the hippies it’s very different and not very vibrant at all.

The Rocker/Greaser subculture is also a shift from the vibrant clothes people expect from the 60’s. Here in the UK, Rockers were from a biker subculture that started in the 50’s. The term Greaser was even used despite the different meanings it had in America (En.wikipedia.org, 2007). Rockers were mostly middle-class people, who could now afford cheap bikes – due to people having more money and being able to get credit. They were also heavily influenced by American pop culture, and the peak of motorcycle engineering (En.wikipedia.org, 2007). The style of the subculture was born from necessity, they wore decorated biker jackets with studs and patches among other things. Wearing mostly t-shirts, leather hats, and Levi jeans. The hair was also a staple, they styled it with Brylcream, and the most iconic hairstyle was the pompadour. Which was popular among 50’s rock ‘n’ roll musicians (En.wikipedia.org, 2007). So again, not very vibrant. It was very monotone when it came to style, but the style was meant to be practical unlike the mod subculture – who they had a major rivalry with.

Celebrities have and always will play a major role in fashion, they set trends, and promote big designers and people want to be them.

Mary Quant was extremely influential in the 60’s, for lots of reasons. The main one is the trends she set. She opened up her boutique called ‘Bazaar’ in 1955, and the extremely popular items were the plastic collars and black leggings (Biography.com, 2014). But unhappy she decided to stock the shop herself, filling it with knee-high boots and tight jumpers in bold patterns (Biography.com, 2014). After that, she built up her reputation, by making her things that were affordable and marketed to young people. Which was a very smart move in the 60’s (Biography.com, 2014). She opened up a second Bazaar in ’61 and two years later her clothes were being shipped to America (Biography.com, 2014). The ’60s was the peak in her career, she popularised the mini skirt and created the ‘micro-mini’ and the ‘paint box’ makeup in 66’ (Biography.com, 2014). In 1966 she also got her OBE medal from Her Majesty – Queen Elizabeth the 2nd, for her contribution to the British fashion industry (Lister, 2016). She was a major influence on fashion as we know it, sure her style may not have been psychedelic or vibrant with color. But it was different and new, she was an innovator and it’s hard to deny.

Jackie Kennedy Onassis was also one of the most influential women in the 60’s and 70’s. For a very good reason. Her style was copied by so many women in the States. With her signature gloves and boat neck dresses. Megan Markle even emulated Jackie’s wedding dress, which was made by a small African American designer called Anne Lowe. After her first dress was ruined (Abrams, 2019). Whilst she was first lady, she often wore Oleg Cassini and Chanel suits, which became her signature during her husband’s presidency. But her most iconic outfits consisted of a pillbox hat and a suit with her gloves (Abrams, 2019). After she had left the White House, her style switched, and she became Jackie O. She became known for her big framed sunglasses and Hermès scarves, Jackie also started to wear more bohemian resort wear as well (Abrams, 2019). Her style was vibrant, it brought life to the White House and inspired many women! It wasn’t very out there like the hippie style; it was more sophisticated.

Marsha Hunt was a major inspiration for black women in the 60’s, living through racial tension in the music and fashion industry. She first appeared after starring in the production of ‘Hair’, despite having a few lines she became the poster child for the show (Brown, 2017). Marsha then started her singing career and became a rock star, even having a relationship with Mick Jagger. But her fashion accomplishments are astounding for the 1960’s! Marsha Hunt was the first ever black woman to be on the cover of ‘Queen’ and she also appeared on ‘Vogue’ (Brown, 2017). This is a major achievement in that era! She is a vibrant person who wears more understated and neutral clothes. The vibrancy was in her personality.

To conclude, only some parts of this era’s fashion were vibrant. Not all of it. Fashion in the 60s was way more than just peace signs, weird colors, and long hair. Fashion was a tool for self-expression, it went way beyond aesthetics. People just wanted to be people, dress how they wanted, and think how they wanted. They lived in a society that enforced ‘respectability’ and fitting in. The same society treated middle-class white men better than, women, people of color, and people who were gay. They didn’t want to conform, so what better way to go against society than self-expression? It was a way for their voices to be heard, it was a way for them to stand out and show that they were not going to let society win. So, the vibrant clothes were a way to get people’s attention, to get the voices of; working-class people, people of color, gay people, and women heard.

The people whose voices deserved to be heard. The people who wanted to be treated like individuals, and who wanted to be equal. They used fashion to their advantage, it wasn’t to be cool or edgy. It was a way they could fight for the right to be themselves.

Bibliography

Website Sources

1. Digitalhistory.uh.edu. (n.d.). Digital History. [online] Available at: http://www.digitalhistory.uh.edu/era.cfm?eraid=17&smtid=1 [Accessed 5 May 2019].
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3. Bbc.co.uk. (2017). Decriminalization of homosexuality: History of gay rights in the UK - CBBC Newsround. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/40459213 [Accessed 5 May 2019].
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5. Greer, L. (2014). The Hippie Movement of the 1960s. [online] Rock and Roll the Sixties. Available at: https://471665674241657755.weebly.com/blog/the-hippie-movement-of-the-1960s# [Accessed 5 May 2019].
6. Gonzalez, K. (2016). What is the Mod Subculture? - Video & Lesson Transcript | Study.com. [online] Study.com. Available at: https://study.com/academy/lesson/what-is-the-mod-subculture.html [Accessed 5 May 2019].
7. Theblondesalad.com. (n.d.). THE MOD MOVEMENT, IS A SUPER COOL BRITISH SUBCULTURE. [online] Available at: https://www.theblondesalad.com/en-AR/all-mag/the-mod-movement-a-super-cool-british-subculture [Accessed 5 May 2019].
8. En.wikipedia.org. (2007). Rocker (subculture). [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_(subculture) [Accessed 5 May 2019].
9. Biography.com. (2014). Mary Quant. [online] Available at: https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/mary-quant [Accessed 5 May 2019].
10. Abrams, M. (2019). 60 of Jackie Kennedy's chicest looks, from ballgowns to Chanel suits. [online] Evening Standard. Available at: https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/royalssociety/jackie-kennedy-style-icon-photos-a4100596.html [Accessed 5 May 2019].
11. Brown, N. (2017). Marsha Hunt History - Essence. [online] Essence. Available at: https://www.essence.com/holidays/black-history-month/marsha-hunt-history/ [Accessed 5 May 2019].

eBook/Book Sources

1. Luther Hillman, B. (2015). Dressing for the Culture Wars. [eBook] University of Nebraska Press, pp.34, 35, 38, 62, 93, 95. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/sunderland/detail.action?docID=3571069# [Accessed 5 May 2019].
2. Lister, J. (2016). British fashion 1966-1970. In: V. Broackes and G. Marsh, ed., You Say You Want a Revolution?. V&A, p.226.